Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix® collection knows how to combine different eras. The silhouette, retro and contemporary at the same time, is inspired by an iconic model from 1956, the reference 6073. The timepiece stands out for its shapes, in particular for the lugs, which each represent an arm of the Maltese cross, symbol of the Manufacturing. The 1950s were the golden age of round timepieces and they remain an interesting territory to explore even today. The importance of the reference 6073 in the history of Vacheron Constantin is also due to the fact that it was one of the first watches of the Manufacture equipped with a self-winding movement: the 1019/1 caliber. This watch holds a special place in Vacheron Constantin’s heritage for another reason as well: the 6073 case boasted a waterproof construction (with multi-sided caseback). There is a great affinity between the 6073 model presented in 1956 and today’s FIFTYSIX®, which knows how to reinterpret numerous features of 1950s replica watches in a contemporary key. The most striking example of this link of continuity is undoubtedly the reference to the Maltese cross, inspired by the shape of a component previously used in mechanical movements. It is a small wheel connected to the lid of the barrel, which made it possible to use the more constant section of the spring by adjusting its winding and unwinding, to increase the accuracy of the watch. Another link with the past is the characteristic shape of the glass, which protrudes far above the bezel. In the past it was in Plexiglas or mineral glass, today it is in sapphire glass, a material much more resistant to scratches, but which does not detract from the contemporary retro style of the FIFTYSIX® collection.
Of course, to celebrate the reference 6073 and also to offer practicality, all the models of the FIFTYSIX® collection, including the complicated ones, are equipped with a self-winding movement, with a new caliber for the version with three hands. The transparent caseback allows you to admire the finishes of the movement – Côtes de Genève, perlage, spiral grinding – and the new oscillating weight designed by fake Vacheron Constantin for this collection: the skeletonized rotor in 22 carat gold, polished, satin, with Maltese cross applied and spiral sandblasted finish represents the signature of all FIFTYSIX® models.
Furthermore, for the first time in its history, the Maison presents a classic collection in both gold and steel, applying the same aesthetic standards, as evidenced by the presence of the hour and minute hands and the white gold indexes also in the versions in steel from the FIFTYSIX® collection. One of the distinguishing features of the collection is the sector dial. While the small parts, punctuated by Arabic numerals alternating with baton hour markers, refer to the 1950s, the presence of two delicate shades obtained through a play of finishes adds a note of elegance and refinement. Unlike the 1956 model, however, the crown is integrated into the case.
The 40 mm case model is equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 1326, with a 48-hour power reserve. This watch, with a 22-karat gold skeletonized oscillating weight in the shape of a Maltese cross, indicates the hours, minutes and seconds in the center, is equipped with a date window and a stop seconds device. gold hour markers enlivens the monochromatic dial with the double opal-soleil gray or petrol blue effect in the steel case model. The timepieces with the rose gold case are available with a silver opaline dial in the center and a soleil effect on the outside or sepia brown. The hour and minute hands and the gold baton indexes are coated with luminescent material. This model is fitted with an alligator leather strap with a steel folding clasp or a gold pin buckle, depending on the version, in the shape of a half Maltese cross.
The FIFTYSIX® complete calendar timepiece, on the other hand, is the flagship model of the collection. The indications of the day of the week, the date, the month and the moon phases are guaranteed by the self-winding movement, the caliber 2460 QCL / 1, equipped with a 22-karat gold skeletonized oscillating weight, decorated with the Maltese cross emblem. . Its construction and extreme precision provide for the adjustment of the moon phase function only every 122 years (compared to 3 years for the standard versions). The characteristic dial is embellished with two rectangular windows at 12 o’clock, which respectively indicate the month and day of the week, the date is indicated by a gold hand in the center and the lunar disc at 6 o’clock represents the night blue sky with the moons in gold. The FIFTYSIX® complete calendar timepiece is always characterized by a 40 mm steel case – combined with dials in opal gray in the center and sunray effect on the outside and petrol blue – or in rose gold with a silver opaline dial in the center and effect soleil outside or sepia brown; from Arabic numerals, hour and minute hand indexes in gold; from an alligator leather strap with a steel folding clasp or a pink gold pin buckle, depending on the model.
